Summer 2010

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A Rare Find: The Prime Street Grille-Upscale Steakhouse and More!

Review by Caroline Miller King and Photography by Ed Mann

When childhood friends and Southern Maryland natives Nicholas White and Tony Graham decided to open The Prime Street Grille two years ago, they obviously were serious about the food. The former manager of Stoney's Kingfishers in Solomons and federal employee-turned caterer, respectively, are turning out a sophisticated menu featuring expertly prepared steaks and seafood that could rival many of D.C.'s well-known establishments. The experience of the chefs - Manuel Parvis, a graduate of Baltimore International College School of Culinary Arts who has worked at The Capital Grille, and Kyle Gragasin, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America and worked under legendary chefs Fritz Gitschner and Roberto Donna - is evident in the fare.

Stepping inside The Prime Street Grille on a recent Monday evening was a welcome respite from the busy Crain Highway just outside its door. Soothing dark tones, dim lighting, and a quiet atmosphere instantly set the mood for a relaxing evening. The 50-seat bar is unobtrusive and partitioned off from the three dining rooms, meaning you won't see the flat-screen TVs if you don't want to. Of course, if you're there for the game, you'll have your selection of 13 beers on draft and more by the bottle. During happy hour, Monday through Friday from 2 to 6 p.m., pint drafts are just $2. Several appetizers are specially priced, as well.

The impressive wine list includes dozens of whites, reds, and sparklers, with several reasonably-priced options available by the glass. During happy hours, some of the white wines are $4, some reds $5. (Martinis are $5.95.)

My dining companions and I started our meal with a sampling of the mouthwatering appetizers. The generously-sized trio of crab balls, smaller versions of the Grille's crab cake, were all lump meat and served with cocktail sauce and a house-made remoulade. If you're serious about your crab cakes, order them as an entrée or add one to your meal for $12. The seared rare tuna we tried was spicy and flavorful, the fresh calamari crispy and delightful. Other intriguing options include Prince Edward Island mussels; Rockfish Bites, fried and coated with buffalo sauce; Crab Bruschetta; and Prime Street Pork Wings, described as bone-in pork lollipops served with mustard horseradish and chipotle barbeque sauce.

Although the appetizer offerings are heavily weighted towards the sea, the real stars of this restaurant are the hand-cut Angus steaks. We tried two of the restaurant's most popular: the filet mignon and ribeye. Both were melt-in-your-mouth tender and cooked exactly as we ordered them. More adventurous diners might opt for the Kona Sirloin, rubbed with Kona coffee and topped with shallot butter, while those with a hearty appetite could attempt the 22-ounce bone-in Cowboy Ribeye. Prime rib that's smoked just outside the restaurant is available on Thursdays and Fridays. For an additional cost, all of the Grille's steaks can be customized with your choice of preparation: with sautéed mushrooms and onions, blackened, au poivre (black pepper-crusted with Courvosier cream), or Oscar (with jumbo lump crab, asparagus, and hollandaise). A lobster tail can be included as part of the Surf & Turf entrée, or added to any meal for $15.

A variety of pasta and local seafood dishes also are available. The rockfish was served with a delicious tomato and shallot burre blanc. Next time, I'll try the crab-stuffed ravioli or chicken topped with deviled crab. More affordable options can be found on the sandwich menu, including a half-pound burger, crab melt, or blackened tuna sandwich. Check out the nightly specials for additional options. For those with dietary restrictions, the chefs can prepare vegetarian and vegan dishes.

All of the entrées, save the pasta, are served with your choice of two sides. It's tempting to stick with old standards like french fries or a loaded baked potato, but the other offerings are worth considering. The vegetable du jour was tender butternut squash, lightly sweetened and perfect for a chilly autumn evening. The petite green beans and asparagus were fresh and firm to the bite. The Gruyere macaroni and cheese, a refined twist on a classic comfort food, captured my heart and had me longing for leftovers the next day.

Except for the superb crème brûlée, the restaurant's desserts are prepared elsewhere. Many of the cakes are homemade, however, and our Chocolate Confusion Cake, with layers of chocolate cake, mousse, and ganache (and encrusted with chocolate chips for good measure) was sinful. You might need a tall glass of milk to wash it down.

Speaking of beverages, oenophiles and beer lovers should appreciate the Grille's monthly wine or beer dinners, featuring several glasses expertly paired with a distinctive menu. The restaurant even occasionally holds spirit dinners to show off its extensive liquor collection. If you can't make it to one of these events, you can still try a "flight" of drinks with your next meal.

Two of the Grille's dining rooms can be reserved for private events. The smaller room at the front of the restaurant would be perfect for an office luncheon. The larger, more private room in the back can accommodate 80 to 150 people and is ideal for wedding rehearsal dinners and the like. The restaurant does not charge a room fee, and audio/visual equipment is available.

Look for entertainment and possibly outdoor seating some time in the future.

The Prime Street Grille, 4680 Crain Hwy. White Plains; open Mon.-Sat. at 11 a.m., Sun. at 10:30 a.m. (serving Sunday brunch). Carry-out menu available. Call 301-392-0510 or visit www.theprimestreetgrille.com for more information.

This article appeared in the Winter 2010 Edition of our magazine.

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As such, some of the information in this particular article may no longer be current.

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